Sleepy Gamer

Be sure to check out Part I for the Wii and PS3 breakdowns.

Xbox 360

None of the current consoles have fragmented the consumer experience more than the Xbox 360.  One could argue that the tiered offering of the of Xbox 360 line of consoles was designed to appeal to a broad range of gamers, from the very casual to the hardest of hardcore.  Unfortunately, most of the omitted features in the lower end models tend to be components you’ll regret buying piecemeal at a later date.  To make things a bit clearer, the Xbox 360 breakdown will be done in two separate parts, based on what Xbox 360 model you “jump in” with.

First things first, let’s get the common stuff out of the way.  Every Xbox 360 system comes with one wireless controller, and supports up to a maximum of 4 controllers at a once.  Each additional wireless controller costs $50, or if you prefer (although I’m not sure why anyone would want to), $40 for wired controllers that plug in via the USB ports.  Like the Wii’s wiimotes, the wireless gamepads also require either a steady supply of AA batteries or you could spring for a set of rechargeable battery packs made specifically for the controllers themselves.  The battery packs can cost as much as $15 a piece, and the charger itself can be bought as a USB “Plug & Play” cord for $20, or as an AC adapter plug-in “Quick Charge Kit” that comes with one battery pack and charges 2 rechargeable packs at once, all for $30.

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You just got yourself a 50″ HDTV and you’re thinking, man … isn’t life grand?  You never felt so good watching Miss Congeniality on your crisp 1080p display until… you raise the volume.  As good as the picture looks, most tvs have really crappy speakers.  It is time, my friend, to look into getting a home theater system.

Surround Sound Basics
Surround sound can be a very confusing purchase.  Just looking at the specifications can be a daunting task.  Here’s a quick glossary guide that explains some typical terms that you’ll need to know when buying a home theater system.

Receiver – Unit that decodes and amplifies the sound coming out of your speakers.
Satellite Speakers – These are the speakers that are connected to your receiver.  There are actually 3 types of speaker drivers: tweeters, mid-range, and subwoofer.
Tweeter – Produces the high frequency sounds.    Think how Mickey Mouse sounds like.
Subwoofer – Produces low frequency sounds.  Think Barry White.
Mid-Range – Produces all the sounds in between the tweeter and subwoofer.
Surround Channels – This refers to the number of speakers your surround sound system is capable of.  So a 5.1 system supports 5 satellite speakers with an additional subwoofer.  The .1 refers to the subwoofer.
Watts – Refers to the measurement of power that the receiver is capable to produce.  More watts usually equates to a louder sound system.
Ohms – Measures the resistance in the flow of electricity.  The more ohms, the more resistance it will cause.  You want this number to be low.

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Sure, there are plenty more expensive hobbies out there to spend your hard earned cash on, but the cost of gaming can get pretty daunting if you’re not too careful.  With any big electronic purchase, it’s best to know how much of a dent to your pocket book it will all be with all the hidden fees and additional purchases added in.  This guide will try to give you an idea of which buys are absolutely necessary, which ones are nice-to-haves, and what you should avoid like the plague.  And for simplicity’s sake, let’s just round all prices up to the nearest dollar.

First things first, you’ll need a television.  Yeah, I know, everyone’s got a TV, but if you’d like to game on a nice big screen and don’t yet have one, you should probably factor that cost into your budget.  If you’re interesting in a high def set, check out our HDTV buyer’s guide, otherwise, any regular TV will do.  Just be aware that most 360 and PS3 games were made with higher resolutions in mind, and in some cases, the text is displayed using extremely tiny font sizes that don’t show up very well on SDTVs.  Okay, now onto the consoles..

Nintendo Wii

The Wii offers the most basic retail configuration out of the three consoles.. one box and one box only.  For $250, you get the Wii game system, one wiimote controller, one nun-chuk controller add-on, and one game, Wii Sports.  However, if you want to invite your friends over to play, you’ll need extra controllers ($40 each) and possibly extra nun-chuks ($20 each).  You might only need to buy one extra nun-chuk though, since most games don’t require the analog stick.  Otherwise, buying a full set of three additional controllers will cost you $180 more.  You might be tempted to buy a copy of the game Wii Play, since it nets you an extra wiimote, but unless you have really young children, I’d say pass.  Wii Play costs $50, same as any other game, so you’re really just buying a $40 wiimote and getting a mediocre minigame collection for $10 more.  Also, if you plan on buying any old Nintendo games on Virtual Console, you should pick up at least one Classic Controller ($20).  And if you decide to use the Wii’s backwards compatibility and play any Nintendo Gamecube games, you’ll need a Gamecube controller (I suggest the wireless Wavebird for $25) and a memory card (around $10), both of which aren’t sold at retail anymore, but are plentiful online at Amazon and eBay.

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Based on Michael J’s request, I’ve decided to write this 101 on video cables. You’re probably thinking, wtf, why do I want to read about cables? Well, let’s all blame Mr. Michael J for that. =) Hopefully this will help clear up some of your long dying questions about cables.

Composite
Composite cables are denoted by the yellow, white, and red connectors, also known as RCA cables. Practically every device that plugs into your TV are compatible with them. The yellow connector outputs video while the white and red carries audio. These cables often come bundled with your DVD player or game console and they very affordable. However, these are the worst cables that you can buy. You can’t really notice the low quality visuals from SD televisions, but the quality is much diminished when viewed from HD displays. With composite cables, your television can only view 480i resolution.

S-Video
S-Video is the next step up from the crappy composite cables. In addition to the yellow, white, and red cables, there’s a fourth pin connector that provides substantial video enhancement. This fourth connector allows higher video bandwidth and carries 2 separate signals for color and luminance. This provides greater video quality when compared to the composite cables. You should see a noticeable increased in sharpness when using S-Video. Although S-Video is a step up from composite, you’re still only limited to 480i resolution. A lot of the older DVD players support S-Video, but this cable is definitely being phased out. Only buy this cable if you do not have a HD display.
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So you’ve bought yourself a PS3 or XBox 360.  But you have it hooked up to that old 19″ Sony Trinitron television that was handed down from your brother’s girlfriend.  The yellow, white, and red cables are plugged into your tv and you say to yourself, “What’s the big deal?  The graphics look just as good as my PS2.”  Hate to break it to you, but it’s time for a new television.  Here are some general tips and guidelines that you should look into when buying a tv.

Plasma or LCD

Any of these television types would be fine for gaming.  They provide excellent picture quality, and both of which are pretty affordable now.  There are lots of misconceptions that plasmas don’t last as long as LCDs, or that burn-in is a rampant problem with the plasmas.  It’s true that first generation plasmas were plagued with these problems, but the latest plasmas have implemented ways to get around that issue.  Current plasmas and LCD televisions are rated with a lifespan of about 60,000 hours, and a lot of plasmas have built in screen savers that help prevent burn-ins that may occur.  So you’ll be fine going either way.

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